Seolgwangbongdo is a 40km walking trail that connects four mountains in Cheongju Province: Asan, Cheonan, Gongju, and Yesan. The trail is named after the initial syllables of Seolhwa Mountain, Gwangdeok Mountain, Bongsu Mountain, and Dogo Mountain. Without going through the peaks of each mountain, the trail follows the mountain road, allowing you to enjoy the scenery and walk comfortably along the middles of the mountain range. Because this trail connects all four mountains and forms a V-shape, it's also called the "V Route".
Walking through the Pine Forest to the Temple
Jipung Valley, nestled at the foot of the mountain, looks like any other rural village. However, what's unique about this place is the large parking lot that's out of place with the surroundings. This is because this area is the starting point for the hiking trails of Bongsu Mountain and the famous pine forest leading to Bonggok Temple.
As you proceed from the parking lot to the mountain path, you'll find a dense pine forest stretching all the way to Bonggok Temple. The early morning rain leaves the pine forest with a refreshing scent of wet grass and pinewood. The thick, red trunks soaring into the sky amidst the mist create a dreamy atmosphere. After walking through this pine forest for a few minutes, you will find the Bonggok Temple building appearing closer, and at this point, the road splits into a T shape. Here, you can find a milestone indicating the construction of the mountain road. Turning in the direction of the milestone, you’ll continue through the dense pine forest, where you can take a rest at a pavilion waiting for you. This is the first pavilion you'll encounter after starting your walk from the parking lot. As you proceed towards Gakhul Pass, you'll come across seven similar rest pavilions in succession.
Passing the entrance of the trail leading to the summit of Bongsu Mountain, if you follow the mountain road alone, the sky opens up as the pine forest clears. As you proceed a few steps, the scenery changes from autumn to winter. You’ll see white snow accumulated in various places, as if you’ve suddenly transitioned from fall to winter.
The clearly paved mountain road follows along the side of the ridge. The low, overcast clouds above move just as leisurely as the traveler's mind. After a while, you'll come across the second pavilion, identical to the one in the pine forest.
Forks Leading from the Village to the Mountain Road
The sound of crunching snow underfoot, the mist veiling the landscape below, the cool, clear air—this unchanged path continues for a while until you reach the third pavilion. This pavilion on the eastern side gets plenty of sunlight, melting away the snow on the path and hillside.
Continuing for another ten minutes, you’ll find a signpost indicating that Gakhul Pass is 6.6km away. Walking for approximately forty more minutes through a similar landscape, you reach the fork between Yaksooam and the village. The sight of the scattered houses below is heartwarming, but before reaching the village, you must climb another hill. At the signpost for Yaksooam, descend towards the village a little, then turn onto the mountain road at the signpost for Gakhul Pass.
Once the village is out of sight, keep an eye on the fork in the road, as there is no signpost from here on. The roads at this fork are almost identical in width, but taking the left path will lead you to a dead end at a cemetery, so head right and take the uphill path. You’ll encounter another similar fork later, but stick to the same strategy: take the right uphill path. You'll know you're on the right trail once you reach the fourth pavilion.
As you walk, the slow-moving clouds above you start to sprinkle rain. The mountains' layers of ridges below form distinct white bands, blending beautifully with the mist. Entering the western side of the mountain road, the path is again covered with radiant white snow. Save for a single fork leading down to a village, the mountain road maintains the same ambiance as it winds around the hill.
When you reach the fifth pavilion, there are about 2.6km left to Gakhul Pass.
The Border of Asan and Gongju, Gakhul Pass
You descend a bit, as if heading down the mountain. The surrounding land, well exposed to sunlight, is cultivated into fields, and you spot a container house: a small farm growing agricultural products. Ascending another gentle hill brings you to the sixth pavilion.
Amongst the bare trees, Route 39 becomes clearly visible, not too far ahead. As you walk, the sound of cars passing on the road grows louder. The path descends gently as you continue, signaling that you are nearing the bottom of the mountain. Before you know it, you arrive at Gakhul Pass. After bidding farewell to the final pavilion on the mountain road, you soon reach the highway.
After walking 8.8km from the parking lot of Bongsu Mountain, you’ve arrived at Gakhul Pass, the border between Asan and Gongju cities. The topography around this pass supposedly resembles a reclining cow, earning its name "Gakhul" because the pass' ridge is akin to the cow's horns. Crossing the highway and heading right, you will find the entrance to Seolgwangbongdo's Gwangdeok Mountain section.
The Bongsu Mountain section of Seolgwangbongdo concludes here at Gakhul Pass. The 17.6km round trip distance described in the book is the distance back to the starting point at the Bongsu Mountain parking lot. If there’s no need to return to the starting point, you can take a bus. Buses run hourly from Gakhul Pass to Onyang Oncheon Station in Asan and to the Yu Gu Terminal in Gongju.
The Remaining Path
Seolgwangbongdo, following the flow of the mountains, offers a relatively stable journey despite rough winds or sudden weather changes. The pavilions you encounter on this path each have their unique charm. Taking a moment to rest, sipping tea, or enjoying a packed meal while admiring the surrounding scenery makes for a wonderful experience.
Continuing the path from Gakhul Pass to the Gwangdeok Mountain section presents a slightly different scenery. The mountain elevation decreases, and the density of the forests varies. Imagining the remaining 20km filled with bird songs and the sound of the wind makes one eager to revisit this place again.
Seolgwangbongdo is composed of different sceneries and paths, each contributing to a complete and enriching journey. From the start of the trail to the return bus stop, every part of the journey is a unique experience. Even after walking 40km, this path will always be one to return to.
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